Understand how Metro, Toei, and JR overlap, choose between Suica/PASMO and passes, and approach major transfers with fewer surprises.

Navigate Tokyo’s rail maze with operator clarity, smart fare choices, and calmer transfers

Tokyo's subway isn't one system—it's three separate operators running different lines that all look like "the subway" to visitors. This split creates real friction: transfers that cost extra, passes that don't work everywhere, and navigation that assumes you understand which company owns which platform.

The system works brilliantly once you know the distinctions. Before that, it's a source of missed connections, wrong exits, and wasted time.

System Structure: Metro, Toei, JR

Three separate operators run what visitors see as "the subway":

OperatorLinesCoverageType
Tokyo Metro9 linesMost of central TokyoUnderground subway
Toei Subway4 linesGaps Metro doesn't reachUnderground subway
JR EastMultiple (incl. Yamanote)Circles city center, connects suburbsMix of above/underground

All three use the same physical infrastructure—underground platforms, color-coded signs, IC card readers. But they're separate companies with separate fare zones.

For a detailed breakdown of how JR, Tokyo Metro, Toei, and private railways differ—and which passes work on which systems—see our complete operator comparison.

Why the operator split creates friction:

IssueImpactSolution
Transfers between operators cost extraMetro to Toei means exiting gates and re-entering = 2 separate trip chargesIC cards (Suica/Pasmo) calculate splits automatically
Day passes are operator-specificTokyo Metro-only pass won't work on Toei lines without combined versionBuy combined pass or use IC card for flexibility
Maps can be misleadingRoutes cross multiple fare boundaries without making it obviousCheck which operators your route uses before traveling

The distinction is invisible until you're standing at a gate that won't let you through, or you realize your "unlimited" pass doesn't cover the line you need.

Real scenario: You're staying near Roppongi (Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line). You want to reach Ryogoku for sumo (Toei Oedo Line). The map shows one transfer at Tsukiji. What it doesn't show: you'll pay separately for Metro and Toei portions, and transferring means leaving one system and entering another through different gates.

Suica and Pasmo IC cards eliminate most of this friction—they work on all three operators and calculate the split automatically. But understanding the structure prevents surprises when you're deciding between passes or planning routes.

The Lines That Actually Matter for Tourists

Tokyo has 9 Metro lines, 4 Toei lines, and multiple JR lines. You'll realistically use five of them for 90% of tourist movement.

LineColorCoverageWhy It Matters
JR YamanoteGreenLoops around central Tokyo: Shinjuku, Shibuya, Tokyo Station, Ueno, IkebukuroAbove ground, runs both directions. Most tourists use daily
Tokyo Metro GinzaOrangeAsakusa to Shibuya via Ueno, Akihabara, GinzaOldest subway, covers tourist-heavy neighborhoods, frequent service
Tokyo Metro HibiyaSilverNorth-south: Ueno to Roppongi to EbisuConnects residential areas to nightlife zones
Tokyo Metro MarunouchiRedHorseshoe through city center: Tokyo Station to Shinjuku via GinzaParallels Yamanote but underground
Toei OedoMagentaMassive loop: Shinjuku, Roppongi, Tsukiji, RyogokuReaches places Yamanote misses, but platforms are deepest

Lines you might never touch:

  • Tokyo Metro Tozai Line (light blue) runs east-west through business districts

  • Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line (green) connects suburbs to the center but overlaps with other options

  • Toei Mita Line, Asakusa Line, Shinjuku Line serve specific corridors but aren't on most tourist routes

The decision framework: if your itinerary focuses on Shinjuku, Shibuya, Asakusa, Ginza, Roppongi, and Ueno, the five lines above cover everything. For more on which neighborhoods each line connects, see our neighborhood guide. If you're staying in outer neighborhoods or visiting specific museums, you might need one of the secondary lines occasionally.

IC Cards vs Day Passes: The Decision Tree

Suica and Pasmo are rechargeable IC cards that work on all trains and subways in Tokyo. Both cost ¥500 deposit (refundable) plus whatever credit you load. They're functionally identical—Suica is issued by JR, Pasmo by private railways, but both work everywhere.

When to use IC cards:

  • Most trips. They're faster than buying tickets, work on buses, and calculate complex fares automatically.

  • You can refund unused balance when leaving (minus ¥220 handling fee).

Tokyo Subway Tickets are unlimited-ride passes valid on Tokyo Metro and Toei Subway only (not JR):

DurationAdult PriceChild Price
24 hours¥800¥400
48 hours¥1,200¥600
72 hours¥1,500¥750

IC Cards vs Tokyo Subway Tickets — Decision comparison:

FactorIC Card (Suica/Pasmo)Tokyo Subway Ticket
CoverageAll operators (Metro, Toei, JR, buses)Metro + Toei only (no JR)
Cost modelPay per ride (¥180-330)Unlimited rides during validity
FlexibilityUse anywhere, anytimeLimited to 24/48/72 hour window
Best forMixed itineraries, 4-5 rides/day, using JR6+ Metro/Toei rides daily, concentrated sightseeing
Setup¥500 deposit (refundable -¥220 fee)Purchase at airport/Metro stations
Break-evenN/A (pay-as-go)5 rides at ¥180, or 3 rides at ¥300

When a pass makes sense:

  • Staying multiple days and visiting 8+ attractions daily that cluster around Metro/Toei stations

  • Accommodation is on a Metro line and you rarely need JR

  • Concentrated sightseeing blitz (Asakusa, Ueno, Akihabara, Ginza, Tsukiji in one day)

When it doesn't:

  • Hotel is near a JR station (passes don't cover JR)

  • Taking taxis or walking between neighborhoods

  • Visiting 2-3 major sites per day rather than rapid-fire touring

  • You value flexibility to use JR when more convenient

The IC card is the default choice for most visitors. Passes are an optimization for specific itinerary patterns, not a universal recommendation. If you're still deciding where to stay based on subway access, proximity to your most-used lines matters more than pass compatibility.

Transfer Mechanics: How Stations Actually Connect

Tokyo's transfer stations aren't platforms across from each other. They're multi-level complexes where "transferring" means navigating underground shopping streets, long corridors, and multiple escalators between lines that might be 5-10 minutes apart on foot.

Why transfers take longer than expected:

Complexity TypeDescriptionExample
VerticalDeep platforms require multiple escalatorsToei Oedo 40+ meters underground. Ginza to Oedo at Shinjuku: 12-15 min
HorizontalLong walking distances between fare zonesJR Shinjuku to Toei Oedo platform: 200+ meters through passages
Gate confusionMetro ↔ Toei requires exiting one system, entering anotherNever surface but must tap out/in, adding time and cost

Specific transfer examples:

Transfer RouteTimeNavigation Notes
Shinjuku: JR to Toei Oedo10-15 minFollow yellow JR signs to west exit area, then descend to Oedo platforms. Budget extra time for first attempts
Shibuya: JR Yamanote to Ginza Line5-8 minLines on different levels but relatively direct. Peak hours add congestion
Tokyo Station: Marunouchi to JR5-7 minEnormous but well-signed. Stay alert—there are 10 JR platforms

The mental model: Think of transfers as traveling between connected buildings, not just changing platforms. Signs will guide you, but the physical distance is real.

When you pay twice: Transferring between Tokyo Metro and Toei requires tapping out of one system and into the other. Suica handles this automatically, but you'll see two separate charges. Metro-to-Metro or Toei-to-Toei transfers stay within the same fare zone.

Minimizing transfer complexity:

StrategyBenefit
Check Google Maps transfer times before committingReveals which routes have 15+ min transfers
Budget 10 min minimum for unfamiliar transfers at major hubsPrevents missed connections
Follow color-coded line signs religiouslyMore reliable than station name kanji
Don't panic if you miss a trainNext train arrives in 3-5 minutes during daytime

The Stations Where Most Visitors Get Lost

Three stations cause 90% of tourist confusion:

StationComplexityKey ChallengeBest Exit Strategy
ShinjukuWorld's busiest. 50+ exits across multiple buildingsMultiple disconnected exit areas (East/West/South), no dominant entranceKnow your line before arrival. East Exit → Kabukicho; West Exit → Government Building; South Exit → Takashimaya. Budget 20 min first time
Tokyo Station10 JR platforms, Shinkansen, MetroMarunouchi (west) and Yaesu (east) sides structurally separateKnow which side you need. Shinkansen transfers need extra time. Specify exact gate when meeting people
ShibuyaPlatforms spread across 5+ levelsLines occupy different elevations, ongoing renovationUse Google Maps exit-by-exit. Hachiko exit crowded but reliable. Expect stairs for Ginza Line

General principle: These stations evolved over decades to handle volume, prioritizing flow over clarity. Getting lost once is the cost of learning. This is why many visitors arrange meet-and-greet services for arrival day—guides eliminate navigation stress while you're still jet-lagged. For more on common subway mistakes visitors make, we cover the most frequent navigation errors.

Station complexity reflects how Tokyo developed—multiple private rail companies built competing hubs, each becoming a mini-downtown. The how Tokyo works guide explains this polycentric structure, which helps the station chaos make sense (even if it doesn't make it easier).

Platform and Direction Logic

Tokyo uses a color-coded signage system. Each line has a color and letter code. Ginza Line is orange (G). Yamanote Line is green (JY). Signs show both the line color and the station codes along that line.

Finding your platform and boarding correctly:

StepActionWhy It Matters
1. Identify line colorCheck map for your line's color (orange, green, red, etc.)Color is faster to follow than reading kanji
2. Follow color signsTrack colored signs through the stationWorks even without Japanese literacy
3. Check platform destinationVerify destination names before boardingTrains on same platform may terminate early
4. Verify the 終 symbol終 = last stopTrain terminates there, doesn't continue full route
5. Confirm platform sideCheck electronic board for departing train's final destinationWrong platform = opposite direction

Direction navigation and recovery:

SituationHow It WorksWhat To Do
Direction signsShow terminal stations, not compass directionsLearn terminal names: "Shibuya/Shinjuku direction" not "clockwise"
Loop lines (Yamanote, Oedo)Trains go both ways to reach same destinationsCheck platform's destination list—if your stop is listed, board
Wrong train boardedLines are bidirectionalGet off next station, cross to opposite platform, return. IC cards make re-entry seamless
Uncertain which trainTrains every 3-5 min during dayStand behind yellow line, let one pass, verify next train's destination
Crowded stationJapanese announcements + kanji signsFollow color signs—orange to Ginza Line is clearer than parsing station names

Rush Hour, Luggage, and Physical Realities

PeriodTimeIntensityWhat It Means
Morning rush7:30-9:30 AM (peak 8-9 AM)SeverePlatform crowding, 150-180% train capacity, physical contact unavoidable
Evening rush5:30-7:30 PMModerateMore dispersed, still crowded but less compressed than morning

With luggage: Morning rush hour at major hubs like Shinjuku is actively unsafe with a large suitcase. The crowds compress and surge. You can't control your movement. Your bag becomes a blocking hazard.

The alternative: store bags before navigating rush-hour trains. Tokyo's luggage storage options cover lockers, app-based services, and forwarding—knowing what's available prevents the "dragging a suitcase through Shinjuku at 8am" scenario.

Where this matters most:

  • Arriving at Narita/Haneda during morning hours and transferring to reach your hotel

  • Checking out with luggage during evening rush

  • Any multi-station trip with transfers during peak times

Elevator reality: Most stations have escalators and stairs. Elevators exist but are rare, often located away from main flow, and not always marked clearly on maps. Assume stairs. If you need elevator access, research specific station layouts in advance. For guests with mobility needs, private car tours remove the elevator search entirely—you never enter a station.

Alternative: luggage forwarding services

Yamato Transport (Takkyubin) and other services will pick up luggage from airports or hotels and deliver to your next destination by the next day.

Service AspectDetails
Cost¥1,500-3,000 depending on distance and size
Drop-off7-Eleven, FamilyMart, hotel front desks
Delivery timeNext day for most routes within Japan
BenefitRemoves luggage problem entirely

When to use alternatives vs when the subway still works:

ScenarioSubway WorksUse Alternatives
TimingOff-peak (after 9:30 AM, before 5 PM)Rush hour with luggage or tight schedules
LuggageSmall bags, backpacksLarge suitcases, multiple bags
Group sizeSolo or pairsFamilies, groups of 4+
MobilityNo constraints, comfortable with stairsSeniors, strollers, accessibility needs
RouteDirect, minimal transfersMultiple transfers at major hubs

Rush hour isn't a permanent barrier—it's a 2-hour window. Plan around it when possible. When you can't, luggage forwarding is the norm here, not an edge case.

When the Subway System Works Against You

The subway is efficient, cheap, and comprehensive. It's also a constant stream of micro-decisions that accumulate over days: which exit, which platform, which line, which transfer route.

Scenarios where complexity overwhelms the benefits:

SituationChallengeImpact
Jet-lagged arrival with luggage9 AM rush + Shinjuku transfer + 2 more connectionsEach decision point compounds fatigue. Wrong exit = 20-30 min lost
Mobility limitationsSeniors, strollers, stairsElevator routes exist but need pre-planning. Default assumes stair capability
Large groups/familiesKeeping 4-6 people together through transfersSomeone always lags. Regrouping wastes time
Multi-day fatigueDay 3+ of constant navigationNo autopilot mode. Mental load affects trip enjoyment
Time-sensitive connectionsFlights, reservations, meetingsOne wrong exit creates cascading delays

When alternative transport makes sense:

Not because the subway is bad. Because removing navigation decisions entirely changes the experience. Private cars eliminate transfers, platform confusion, luggage management, and crowd navigation. Taxis work for direct routes. Luggage forwarding solves the baggage problem.

The subway handles volume brilliantly. What it doesn't do is reduce cognitive overhead for people unfamiliar with the system. After 3-4 days, most visitors have internalized the key routes and stations. Before that threshold, every trip is active problem-solving.

This isn't a warning to avoid the subway. It's recognition that "manageable" and "enjoyable" aren't the same state. Some visitors reach day three and realize they've spent more energy navigating than experiencing Tokyo. For more on when navigation overhead outweighs subway benefits, we break down the decision factors.

This guide is published by Hinomaru One, a Tokyo-based private tour operator.